1. Sharkbite Frost Free Sillcock Installation Instructions
2. Sharkbite Frost Free Sillcock Installation Kits
3. How To Fix Frost Free Sillcock
4. Frost Free Sillcock Pex
5. Sharkbite Sillcock
6. Sharkbite Frost Free Hose Bib
7. Sharkbite Frost Free Sillcock Installation Kit

Jul 15, 2013 - This video shares tips for installing an outdoor frost-free sillcock or hose bib. You'll understand how to use a SharkBite fitting with the new sillcock to m. Looking to install a new hose bibb or replace your existing frost free sillcock on your outdoor faucet?Watch our installation instructional video to learn ho. The 14 –inch long frost-free sillcock gets ¾ inch mht outlet. The brass body with the chrome-plated finish and comes with ½ inch MIP connect or ½ inch solder cup for water supply. SharkBite 24628LFA Frost Free Sillcock. The product is easy to install and requires no soldering, no crimping, and no glue.

Most homes will have an outside faucet to hook up your hose in the front and back of your house but sometimes the faucet is not in a good location for watering your garden or washing your car.

Here we will cover the steps needed to install a Sillcock.

You should have a good understanding of basic plumbing.

If you feel this job is outside your basic abilities then you may want to ask a friend to help or have a plumber perform the work.

Leaks from plumbing are the most common reason for insurance payments. Most often it is a leaky clothes washer hose or a water heater but if you install a pipe yourself you may need an inspection and you may need to notify your insurance agent.

You will need the following tools to complete the job.

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Copper Pipe Cutter
PVC Pipe Cutter or Hack Saw
Propane Torch Kit
Solder, Plumbers Flux, Sand Paper
Pliers
Teflon Tape and PVC Glue
1/2″ Drill and assorted Drill Bits
Rags
Eye Protection
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The first thing we should cover is the difference between a Hose Bib and a Sillcock.

The first thing we should cover is the difference between a Hose Bib and a Sillcock.Although they do look some what the same you will notice that the Sillcock has an extended pipe that enters deep into the home.

Sillcocks can come in 6″ to 12″ lengths and you should always pick the longest reasonable size. The reason they are so long is because unlike a Hose Bib where the valve that controls the water is exposed to the outside elements. The Sillcock places the valve at the end of the long pipe. This is so in the winter the valve is protected from freezing.

If you own an older home and find that you are constantly repairing your Hose Bibs it might be a good idea to install the longer Sillcock.

And for practical reasons Hose Bibs should be reserved for heated areas of your home like a utility hose connection in the basement or on a hot water heater.

Ok now we can get started.

First we need to find the place on the outside of the home where we want to place the Sillcock.

You will want to locate the Sillcock at least a foot in from the corners of the home and away from door openings and not under windows.

Our Sillcock will be placed on the front wall of the garage to make it easy to wash the car.

At this time the inside of the Garage has not been drywalled so it is a perfect time to run our lines. We are also lucky to have a Utility Sink in the garage so we can tap off of the cold water feed to the sink.

Our original lines are CPVC but where the Sillcock enters the garage we will use Copper Pipe because it can withstand the vibration and abuses of connecting and disconnecting a hose.

We have selected a 6″ Sillcock that will extend out of our 2×4 wall inside the house. This will allow us to cross our corner outside of the wall without need to cut into the framing of the house.

First make a hole in the OSB Sheathing from the inside of the house.
Press your bit into the siding that covers the outside of the house just far enough that it makes a hole with the centering part of the paddle bit. Then go outside and complete the hole by drilling through the siding.

You can now place the Sillcock in the hole and get a better idea how it will sit.

We place a 2×4 up against the OSB and toe nail it into the studs on either side. then we to to the outside of the wall and drill back through the 2×4 so the Sillcock can run through it.

It is important to properly support the Sillcock so we add a second 2×6 piece under the 2×4 and use it as a ledge. We will anchor our Sillcock and copper pipe to this board. When we are finished this area will be boxed in and drywalled over while still allowing a removable access plate in case we need to service the Sillcock.

Here you can see we are prepping the Copper pipe that will connect to the Sillcock.
First we cut the pipe to length using a tubing cutter.

A hack saw will also work but it is better if you use a Tube Cutter as the cuts will be perpendicular and straight and they will not have the jagged edge that a hack saw leaves.

All the parts are cut to size and test fitted.

Each piece of copper that is joined, both the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting must be prepped.

We use black emery cloth sand paper to remove the oxidation on the area that we want to solder. Just rub the sand paper on the pipe until about 1 inch is clean and bright.

Now we have to add some Flux to the areas we want to accept Solder.

Flux will let the solder run smoothly on the pipes surface and it will insure that impurities are not introduced when you are soldering.

Basically any place you put the flux will get solder on it so use it sparingly but apply it to all parts just like you did with the sand paper.

Wires can be soldered with a soldering iron but to join pipe you have to use a propane torch. Read the instructions for your torch before you begin.

The Blue Cone inside of the outer yellow orange flame is where the hottest part is.

You want to heat the pipe not the solder.
When the pipe gets hot enough you will be able to touch the solder to the joint and it will melt and flow back into the fitting.

Never try to help the solder by applying flame directly to it. Melting the solder means the pipe inside the fitting is not hot enough and you will end up with a ring of solder at the edge of the connection and no penetration back into the fitting area.

You can see we are heating the Fitting at the bottom of the pipe and the solder is melting and flowing into the joint at the top of the fitting.

There are two fittings one is a half inch swett to a 3/4 inch female transitional fitting to accept the Sillcock on the other side we attach the male side of a CPVC to Copper half inch fitting.

Never try to solder a CPVC to Copper coupler fitting while it is still assembled because you risk the chance of damaging the rubber washer and CPVC pipe.

Once everything is cool we attach it to the 2×6 support with nail down pipe holders.

A small piece of luan is placed under the pipe to give it a downward slope that way water will drain out of the Sillcock and not remain in the pipe over winter.

Now we run the line up the side wall to our sink.

A downward slope toward the sillcock is measured and then a string line provides quick reference.

In Pressure Lines it is not normal to have a slope toward the fixture but because we will be draining this pipe in the fall before the first frost it is important that water can flow easily out of the Sillcock.

To install the CPVC pipe in the wall we use a 5/8ths paddle bit and drill in the center of our studs.

We will need to make connections inside the wall by joining the pipe with couplers.

A coupler is just a straight fitting that joins 2 pieces of pipe.

Clean the pipe with a towel and then apply primer and then adhesive.

All joining parts must be coated with primer and then adhesive.

There is no need to sand the connections like you would for copper pipe.

Place the coupler on one side of the pipe then give it a half turn.

Insert the other side into the coupler and turn the pipe you inserted a half turn.

Now hold the connection together for about a minute so the glue can join the parts.

You will find that PVC Pipe likes to force its way apart so holding the fittings and allowing glue time is important.
Twisting the pipe after it is inserted into the fitting also forms a good bond. Even if you are repairing pipe that is previously installed and held down by pipe straps there is usually enough play in the pipe to twist it a bit before you insert it into the fitting.

To make the transition from CPVC To our Copper pipe we need to glue the female part of the Union on to our CPVC pipe that is in the wall.

Because Unions are made to be taken apart all you have to do is glue the female end on the pipe and then you can connect the two brass parts together just like you were making a hose connection.

Like we said before never solder on the Male part of the Union with the fitting assembled.

If you look inside the female part you will see a small piece of CPVC pipe has been joined at the factory to the brass part and there is also a rubber washer gasket that seals the connection.

You may also want to try a Shark Bite fitting in this area. They are a special fitting that can accept CPVC, Copper and Pex pipe and there is no need for solder or glues.

One of our other howtos explains the use of Shark Bite Fittings.

Now that we have the copper pipe connected to the CPVC that we installed in the wall it is time to tap into our Cold Water pipe that is feeding the utility sink.

Carefully cut the CPVC portion of the Feed Line and then prep and insert a T-Fitting.

The T-Fitting will divert water before the shutoff valve of the sink so we will need to add our own Ball Valve Shut off on the piece of CPVC that runs from the sink to the wall.

Our connections are almost complete.

We have water available from the sink out to our Copper mounting pipe.

All we have to do now is install our Sillcock by wrapping the threads with some Teflon Plumbers Tape and then secure it to the outside of the Garage with some small Lag Bolts or security screws.

Before you screw in the Sillcock it is a good idea to fill the hole and the area behind the mounting flange with exterior grade caulk.

You should apply more caulk then necessary
and then wipe away any excess later.

The final thing we need to do is add some insulation around the pipe.
Although pipe insulation only has a small insulating factor it is better then nothing.

We will also position the fiberglass insulation behind the pipe to try to keep the line as warm as possible.

This line will need to be drained in the early fall but sometimes an early frost can hit.

If you live in a location where cold weather is a problem then you may want to plumb your feed line with metal pipe and have it exposed inside of the garage.

If you choose to have an exposed pipe you should use heavy walled galvanized pipe.

Galvanized pipe can withstand some abuse and unlike CPVC or Copper it won’t crack if it is hit by a lose shovel or falling bicycle.

If your pipe is inside your wall or in a heated area you have the choice of copper or CPVC.

Installing a Sillcock is a big job and once you have all the tools and parts it will take you the good part of the morning.

If you don’t feel that you can accomplish this job by yourself then find a plumber or a friend that has plumbing experience.

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Diagnose & fix frostproof hose bibb & sillcock leaks:

This article series gives the steps in diagnosing leaks at outdoor spigots, hose bibbs, or sillcocks.

As our illustration at page top explains, the long shaft (green) of this frost-proof faucet permits the actual stem washer and valve seat to be located on the warm side of the building exterior wall.

Using the popular Woodford Model 17, we illustrate & explain the steps in replacing a leaky sillcock anti-siphon valve.

This article series describes outdoor faucets, hose bibbs, sillcocks, or hose hookups, how they work, where they should be installed, freeze-proofing hose hookups, and troubleshooting or repairing stuck, broken, or dripping outdoor faucets.

We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.

How to Install or Repair a Leaky Frost-proof Outdoor Faucet SillCock or Hose Bibb

Frost-proof or freeze-proof outdoor hose bibbs or sillcocks use longer-stem frost-proof outdoor faucet (shown at left). These are required in new construction in most jurisdictions. This outdoor includes a vacuum breaker is designed to permit water to drain out of the faucet when the faucet is closed.

Explanation of the faucet's anti-siphon feature: The vent (allowing air into the faucet) combines with a check valve to prevent back-flow of unsanitary water from a garden hose backwards into the building water supply piping.

Explanation of the faucet's frost-proof feature: The long faucet body of a frost-proof hose bibb is long enough to extend fully through the building exterior wall or foundation and into indoor or heated space, places the actual shut-off stem washer and valve-seat inside the building.

[Click to enlarge any image]

Frost-proof outdoor faucets are installed with the faucet body sloping down from its connection inside the building.

This position assures that when the faucet is turned off, any water remaining inside the faucet body will drain fully.

As we explained above in describing standard compression type hose bibbs, you should never leave a garden hose attached to the outdoor faucet in winter.

Even with a frost-proof faucet, water in the hose may add to the risk that the faucet will be freeze damaged by preventing the faucet from draining fully even when it is turned to the 'off' position..

The sketch above, showing the two types of outdoor water faucets is provided courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates, a Toronto home inspection, education, and report-writing company.

What Kind of Faucet Have I Got?

Before starting to tear things apart or to buy repair parts, let's check that we know what kind of faucet we're repairing: the procedures and parts are not the same.

Our first photo above is a typical frost-free anti-siphon faucet, or 'Woodford' valve. Repairing that faucet is discussed here on this page.

If your outdoor faucet looks like our second photo at above, and if needs repair, it is NOT a frost-proof anti-siphon valve, it's a traditional compression valve faucet or spigot. You want to see the leak repairs starting

at FAUCETS, OUTDOOR HOSE BIBBS

Why do we Want an Anti-Siphon Faucet?

How might we get backflow from a garden hose into the building piping? Easy. Suppose you are filling an above-ground pool, or a fish pond, with your garden hose.

The above-ground pond in our photo at left includes three levels, at least two of which are high enough to cause water back-flow when the pond fill-hose is left connected as shown in our photo.

As long as the upper surface of water in such an outdoor water container is higher than the hose bibb location on the building, the potential for back-flow occurs.

Back-flow of water from such a source through an open hose bibb faucet would then occur if the building happened to lose water pressure.

Also see CROSS CONNECTIONS, PLUMBING.

How to Repair Sillcock Leaks at the Anti-Siphon Valve

This leaky anti-siphon hose bibb is the same one as shown earlier in this article, before it leaked. The hose bibb worked perfectly for about fifteen years before in a sudden change of behaviour it began gushing water when the faucet was opened.

Question: where can I get repair parts for my frost-free anti-siphon sillcock

2018/06/27 Jim said:

I would like to replace the only the stem assembly (4 inch, spring loaded) in my frost free anti-siphon sillcock. Where the handle attaches the stem assembly is very bent.

Also, to replace the whole sillcock would require I open a hole in the bedroom wall.

I'm having trouble finding the replacement part and would like to know if anyone can identify the attached stem assembly and know where I could find one. Thanks

Reply:

Jim

Take the valve stem that you removed to a good hardware store and you may find they have a plethora of Replacements one of which will match.

Or if you can see a brand and model on the sillcock, such as the Woodford No. 17 shown above on this page, you can buy the exact parts from your local plumber supplier or you can order replacement parts from online vendors.

I agree that for a typical frost-proof sillcock installed in a building wall above ground you will have no access without cutting an access opening in the wall from inside or outside.

The Woodford sillcock shown above is installed in a wall outside of a bathroom on a wall abutted inside by a cast iron bath tub. There is no access from inside the building whatsoever. (You'd have to demolish the bathroom to remove the bathtub.

A plumber having to replace the entire sill-cock would cut an access opening from outside, make the repair, then repair the wall.

Reader follow-up:

Found the frost free anti-siphon hose bib at a local plumbing supply store

It only cost about $20. I will rob the stem assembly from the new hose bib and insert it into the old (still good) hose bib. Will save time and money from cutting a hole in my wall to get to the pipe connection and replace the whole thing.

Reply: How to Replace the Anti Siphon Valve on a Frost Free Woodford No. 17 hose bibb

Very smart, Jim.

But before replacing the valve stem, let's be sure we understand just where the leak is occurring.

[Click to enlarge any image]

You can identify the brand and model of your frost-free anti-siphon faucet by looking at the cap - photo below.

Mansfield sillcocks series #500 use a gray plastic cap on the anti-siphon valve.

Woodford sillcocks use tan colored plastic and the anti-siphon valve cap is marked WOODFORD MODEL 17 ANTI SIPHON.

Find the Exact Sillcock Leak Before Trying to Repair It

Now look very closely at where water is leaking out of the valve.

In our photo above water is gushing out of this sillcock valve, but we need to look more-closely to see exactly where the leak is originating. In my photo the yellow arrows point to the gush of water.

The blue arrow points to the most-common leak point at a hose bibb: leaks at the hose connection to the faucet mouth. Remove the hose and replace the hose washer and re-tighten it.

The green arrows point to occasional leaks at the valve stem or its packing washer.

The red arrow points to the point at which water will leak if the hose bibb or sillcock's anti-siphon valve has failed.

Here are three different cases:

1. If water leaks from the valve outlet when the faucet handle is closed, (blue arrow) then the valve stem washer, or (rarely) the valve stem itself may need replacement.
2. If water leaks around the valve handle stem (green arrows ) then the valve packing or packing washer is leaking and might need to be replaced, though on occasion a slight gentle tightening of the packing nut will stop such a leak.
3. If water leaks from the plastic cap covering the anti-siphon valve when the valve is open (red arrow and also the photo below) then the anti-siphon valve assembly (simple plastic parts) should be replaced.

If the leak is at the brown (or gray on some brands) plastic cap on top of the anti-siphon hose bibb like the Woodford No. 17, those parts can be replaced quite easily without replacing the entire valve and without removing the valve stem at all.

Does your frost-free anti siphon valve look like the Woodford model No. 17 I show here?

Other frost-proof sillcocks such as Mansfield have similar features and can be repaired by ordering the proper repair kit for your valve brand and model.

Watch out: repair parts are generally not interchangeable between sillcock brands.

A Mansfield repair kit sold by Danco for the Mansfield-brand Series #500 sillcocks will not, for example, repair a Woodford-brand Model #17 sillcock.

Even though the white plastic anti siphon cap threads will fit into some other brands of sillcocks (such as Woodford) the Mansfield#500 anti siphon valve will NOT work in the Woodford Model #17 - we tried it and found that it simply leaked like mad.

Woodford sells sillcock faucet repair kits for all of their product line through plumbing suppliers, building supply stores, as well as online vendors and by their own website given at the end of this article.

All of these parts can be replaced on the Woodford hose bibb working from outside.

However if the leak problem is only at the anti-siphon valve a simpler and less costly repair will be sufficient: remove the plastic cap, un-screw the anti-siphon valve, and replace the two parts (the threaded fitting and the washer-bearing pressure-operated valve seal inside) with the parts from the repair kit. Then snap the new plastic cover cap in place.

How to Replace the Anti Siphon Valve on a Woodford Model 17 Hose Bibb

Above are the three parts you'll need.

At your local plumbing or hardware store as well as from online vendors or building suppliers you can buy a replacement kit that includes just these items.

Step 1: remove the plastic anti siphon valve cap

Step 2: un-screw the anti-siphon valve

My photo above shows what happens if you turn water on at this point: that's because the anti-siphon valve or its washer is dislocated or the valve is damaged.

I've successfully disassembled, cleaned-up and re-assembled old anti-siphon valve parts to repair a leak like this but a better approach is to simply replace the parts. That's a more-reliable repair.

My photo just above shows loosening the plastic anti-siphon valve assembly.

Once loosened, you can un-screw this plastic part by hand.

Below I'm holding the old anti-siphon valve parts (first photo) and the replacement parts (second photo).

The replacement anti-siphon valve parts look different but they work just fine in older Woodford Model 17 sillcocks.

Step 3: insert the new anti-siphon valve parts in the proper position

First put the smaller valve component into the underside of the clear plastic cap so that the washer is up inside the cap, not down towards the faucet body.

Turn this assembly over so that you can thread it carefully into the brass body of the sillcock.

In my photo I'm holding the assembled valve with its upper side 'up' - you can see through the clear plastic that the plastic pin on the red washer-bearing plunger is through the small hole in the center of the clear cap.

Take care not to cross thread the anti-siphon valve plastic part.

If the small center plunger falls down into the valve, use a tiny screwdriver or equivalent to center it in the valve head space so that when you screw down the threaded valve top the plunger moves into the hole in the center of the top.

Step 4: Tighten the replacement anti siphon valve

Tighten the assembly by hand and then gently snug it down with your gooseneck pliers. Don't over-tighten the valve and take care not to damage these plastic parts.

Step 5: Replace the anti siphon valve plastic cap

Watch out: before replacing the cap, turn on the hose bibb - open the faucet handle - and verify that the sillcock's anti-siphon valve is not leaking.

You'll see water enter the clear plastic valve top and you may notice the red washered plunger snap up against the under-side of the valve top.

Water should not be leaking out of the anti-siphon valve at this point though of course, water is pouring all over your feet as you've opened the sillcock.

In my photo above [Click to enlarge any image] you may see that there's water inside of the valve, because I've opened the sillcock for testing.

Below, I've replaced the original cap - it just snaps in place.

You can use the new plastic cap. But I re-installed the old plastic cap for a trial run as it's obvious that you can't remove the plastic cap again without chewing it up with your pliers.

I kept the new un-damaged cap in reserve, planning to install it to replace the ugly chewed-up original cap once I'm sure that the repair was successful.

Step 6: Mistake to Avoid: A Closed Hose Manifold will Blow the Anti-Siphon Valve on a Sillcock

Watch out: especially if water pressure is high at your building, if you install and close any type of shutoff valve downstream from the sillcock's outlet and then open the sillcock valve the water pressure may blow out the anti-siphon valve.

To avoid that fiasco, BEFORE OPENING THE SILLCOCK be sure that AT LEAST ONE DOWNSTREAM VALVE is OPEN.

Watch out: excerpt from instructions for installation of the Legend Valve sillcock cited just below:
Avoid the use of hose bibb accessories such as hose manifolds, hose Y-splitters or sprinkler timers, which may cause the TM-550 to malfunction. . The TM-550 isdesigned and certified in accordance with ASSEStandard 1019 Section 1.2.1, for non-continuouspressure service: Not more than twelve hours ofcontinuous water pressure. Outlet-mounted devicesmay cause sudden or continuous, damaging.

Replacing the Entire Frost-Proof Anti-Siphon Sillcock Valve

Watch out: while you cannot simply pull out a sillcock that was soldered in place, valves are sold terminating in either a solder-type or sweat fitting OR in a threaded fitting.

IF you knew that your valve is at threaded fitting installation, it might be possible to unscrew an existing sillcock like the Woodford valve shown below from outside the building.

You would remove the screws in the plastic mounting flange and then attempt to remove it, wrap the replacement sillcock valve threads with teflon tape and screw the new one back in place.

But there are some serious risks with this 'easy' sillcock replacement approach:

1. Flooded wall cavity: If you were not able to completely shut off water supplying the sillcock when you remove it you will flood the wall cavity, wet the insulation, and risk a serious water damage or mold contamination problem.
2. Wet wall cavity: Even if you were successful in shutting off the water supplying the sillcock when you remove it some water is likely to spill out of the valve as well as the supply pipe into the wall cavity: same hazards as above, though smaller in scope.
3. Continued leaks into the wall cavity: because you cannot see the plumbing connection between the sillcock and the receiving plumbing fitting in the wall cavity, there is a risk that your connection leaks continuously, ultimately causing the same sort of damages as in warnings #1 or #2 above.

To avoid these risks, if you cannot repair the hose bibb / sillcock by installing a repair kit or a new valve stem and repair kit while leaving the valve body in place, I'd cut an access opening in the exterior wall or in the interior drywall if that location is accessible, and I'd inspect for leaks before, during, and after the repair.

Where to Buy Frost-Proof Anti Siphon Valve Hose Bibbs, Sillcocks, & Yard Hydrants

What's the difference between a regular sillcock, a frost-free sillcock, and a yard hydrant?

Sillcock: Here we illustrate first a conventional sillcock or hose bibb intended to be mounted on the exterior wall of a building, supplied by building cold water (usually) piping. This is NOT a frost-proof sillcock and this valve does NOT include an anti-siphon feature.

This sillcock valve is intended for use in climates where freezing is not a concern.

[Click to enlarge any image]

In a freezing climate where hose bibbs like this one are installed, the plumber should have installed a shut-off valve inside the heated building interior.

Before freezing weather arrives the indoor shutoff valve is closed and then the sillcock or hose-bibb is opened to drain.

Watch out: be sure you shut off the water supply to this valve indoors before freezing weather. Otherwise the valve and piping near it can freeze, burst, and may leak into the building, causing costly damage.

Watch out: when you turn off the in-building water supply to this type of hose bibb or sill cock, remember to go back outside and open the valve so that it will drain completely - to avoid possible frost damage to the valve.

When you open the valve to drain it check to be sure that water stops dripping in a few minutes. If water continues to run or drip then the indoor shut-off valve is not fully closed, or is leaky and needs repair.

Frost-Proof Sillcocks like the valve shown above (from a Home Depot store) are designed to drain out when turned off. The same features that improve drainage out of the valvce when it's closed provide an anti-siphon feature that prevents back-siphonage of hose water (or nasty water into which the end of the hose rests) back into the building water supply where it might contaminate building piping.

The photo shows the long valve body that assures that the actual shutoff is inside the heated space.

Sillcocks discussed in the article above, also called 'hose bibbs' are used to provide an outdoor water or hose hook-up at a building wall.

The water supply piping to the sillcock is routed through the building, in cold climates through a heated space, then must pass through the building wall to the exterior where a hose connection is provided.

Sillcocks may not be lead-free - including those listed below.

Frost Proof Yard Hydrants: a yard hydrant is usually a free-standing outdoor water supply spigot used for watering or for livestock.

It is fed by underground water piping. As you'll note from our illustration below, adapted from Menards' yard hydrant installation instructions cited further below, to be frost-proof or freeze-damage-proof, there are several features required:

• The hydrant's valve should be below the frost line - the deepest point in the soil that is expected to freeze during cold weather
• The water supply piping to the hydrant should be below the frost line
• A gravel bed is provided around the yard hydrant's buried valve. This gravel allows the hydrant's vertical standpipe to drain out when the hydrant valve is closed.
• Typically water pressure to the hydrant is at 80 psi or less and recommended operating pressure is 20-40 psi.
• Support (a concrete block or large stone) is placed under the elbow at the bottom of the hydrant to prevent settlement of the hydrant assembly in loose soil caused by hydrant drainage.
• Watch out: if the hydrant is to be installed below a paved area or inside of a barn or outbuilding, a drain pipe and drywell or equivalent must be provided into which the hydrant can drain when it's turned off. Otherwise hydrant drainage may result in a muddy area inside the building or a wet area in or frost damage to the pavement.
  Watch out: most plumbing codes will require a vacuum breaker on the yard hydrant's water supply piping to prevent potential back-contamination of the building water supply piping and water itself.

Watch out: some sillcocks and yard hydrants, even including anti-siphon ball valves and sillcock models contain lead and do not comply with the U.S. Safe Drinking Water Act.

Those valves should NOT be be used anywhere that water passing through them will be consumed by humans nor (in our OPINION) other animals including livestock and for fish ponds.

Sharkbite Frost Free Sillcock Installation Instructions

Watch out: Never leave a hose attached to the hydrant afteruse. This will prevent the hydrant from drainingproperly and will cause the hydrant to freeze in coldweather. Leaving the hose attached could also siphoncontaminants back into the water system. - this quote appears in literature from Everbilt and from Watersource.

Where to Buy & Installation Instructions for Sill-cocks & Hydrants

There is a nearly-overwhelming number of sillcock brands that specifically advertise that they are lead free, including some of the following.

• American Valve FREEZE-PROOF SILLCOCK INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS [PDF], Model M73AS, American Valve, retrieved 2019/08/13 original source: https://www.americanvalve.com/perch/resources/pages-from-avm73as-installationv102-19-003.pdf
• ARROWHEAD FROST-PROOF WALL HYDRANT INSTALLATION, USE, REPAIR GUIDE [PDF], Arrowhead 456-06LF 1/2' frost free hydrant, length for 3 3/4' wall thickness (shown above) retrieved 2019/08/13, original source: http://champion-arrowhead.com/media/wysiwyg/PDFs/Frost-Free_Hydrant_Guide.pdf
  Arrowhead frost-proof hydrants (sillcocks) are sold in lengths suitable for various wall thicknesses: 4', 6', 8', 10', 12' and 14' walls . This document also includes details on how to de-code the frost-proof sillcock model number to be sure that you're buying the correct device for your wall thickness AND the inlet piping type (such as push-fit, PEX, Crip Pex, threaded copper, sweat copper, etc.
• B&K Industries 104-117 10-inch Frost Free Sillcocks (sold at plumbing suppliers and online at Amazon)
• BMI Canada, BMI FROST PROOF FAUCET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] BMI, 3437, Grande Allee Blvd,Boisbriand, Quebec J7H 1H5 Canada, Tel: 1-800-361-1452, also offices in Mississsauga ON, retrieved 2019/08/13, original source: http://www.bmicanada.com/products/bmi_specs_frost_free_installation.pdf
• Boshart Industries, Boshart 0865(P)-Series self-draining vacuum breaker ('anti-siphon) Spec Sheet [PDF]
  Boshart Industries, 25Whaley Ave., Milverton Ontario Canada N0K 1M0 Tel: 800-561-3164 Website: www.boshart.com
• Cash Acme #24636 Frostproof sillcock, 1/2' x 12' long.
• Everbilt Frost-Proof Yard Hydrant INSTALLATION & ADJUSTMENT INSTRUCTIONS [PDF], sold at Home Depot stores, retrieved 2019/08/13, original source: https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/f5/f5f0c554-952d-4a4a-8649-3b85788d9f58.pdf
  Excerpt: Watch out: Never leave a hose attached to the hydrant afteruse. This will prevent the hydrant from drainingproperly and will cause the hydrant to freeze in coldweather. Leaving the hose attached could also siphoncontaminants back into the water system. - this quote appears in literature also from Watersource.
• Jomar Valve, Jomar T540-G (lead-free dezincification-resistant brass) [PDF] Jomar Valve, 7243 Miller Dr.Warren, MI 48092 USA Tel: 1-800-325-5690 Web: www.jomar.com

• Legend Valve, MODEL TM-550 MULTI-TURN ANTI-SIPHON FROST-FREE SILLCOCK INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] Legend Valves, 300 N. Opdyke Rd. Auburn Hills, MI 48326 USA Tel: (800) 752-2082 Website: www.legendvalve.com retrieved 2019/08/13, original source: http://www.legendvalve.com/images/technical/IOM_TM-550_multi-turn_FFSC.pdf
• Mansfield Sillcocks, 4515 East 139th Street Grandview, MO 64030 USA, Website: www.prier.com, Tel: 800-362-9055 Prier purchased Mansfield's Brass Division in 2007
  Note: Mansfield's 500-series Anti-Siphon wall hydrant is a retired product. Parts for the current Prier 400-series sillcock are NOT interchangeable with the older 500-series.
  However both Prier and a separate company, Danco Inc., Irving TX USA 75062 sell (made in China) repair kits for that sillcock.
• Matco-Norca Valves, Matco 212 Frost Freer Sillcock, Anti Siphon Spec-Sheet [PDF] , 1944 Route 22 PO Box 27 Brewster, New York 10509 Toll-Free: 800-68-VALVE (688-2583) New York Toll-Free: 800-431-2082 Texas Toll-Free: 800-935-5456 Illinois Toll-Free: 844-412-5068 California Toll-Free: 866-532-8306 Website: https://www.matco-norca.com

• Menards YARD HYDRANT INSTALLATION GUIDE [PDF] retrieved 2019/08/13,
• Merrill Manufacturing, MERRILL C-1000 YARD HYDRANT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS [PDF], retrieved 2019/08/13 fdrom suppliesdepot . com original source https://www.merrillmfg.com/product/installation-instructions-c-1000-series-yard-hydrant
• Mueller 104-405 ProLine FrostFree Sillcock Valves (shown above) - sold at hardware stores, plumbing suppliers, building suppliers; there are at least 19 models of Mueller anti-siphon frost-free sillcocks or frost-free hydrants or hose bibbs with varying lengths, materials, dimensions.
• Prier Heavy Pattern Angle Sill Faucets, MANSFIELD STYLE 300-DIAMOND SERIES WALL HYDRANT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] Prier, 4515 East 139th Street Grandview, MO 64030 (800) 362-9055 Fax (800) 362-1463 Website: www.PRIER.com
  Prier produces both 'Freezeless' wall hydrants such as their 300/400/500 -series Freezeless hydrants (and more models such as the C-134/234 Series Freezeless wall hydrant) , and sill faucets that are not frost-protected.
  Excerpt:
  PRIER Heavy Pattern Angle Sill Faucets are designed for areas that require water service, but are not subject to freezing temperatures. Typical installations include basements, garages and for outdoor installations in mild climates. The heavy pattern design with solid brass stem assures years of reliable service with minimal maintenance.
• Proline frost-free sillcocks, widely sold at plumbing suppliers and online
• Raven Products, #FP-1132-series w/ ceramic cartridge sillcocks, frostproof Website: www.ravenproducts.us - sells only to wholesalers
• SharkBite Frost Free Sillcocks, available from
  SharkBite Plumbing Solutions, SharkBite USA2300 Defoor Hills Rd. NWAtlanta, GA 30318USA Tel: 1-877-700-4242
  SharkBite Canada74 Alex AvenueVaughan, Ontario, L4L 5X1Canada, tel: 1-888-820-0120 retrieved 2020/01/19 original source: https://www.sharkbite.com/
  SHARKBITE INSTALLATION GUIDE [PDF] (2018) Reliance Worldwide Corporation2300 Defoor Hills Rd NW,Atlanta, GA 30318Phone: 1-877-700-4242 Fax: 1-877-700-4280rwc.comReliance Worldwide Corporation (Canada) Inc.74 Alex Avenue Vaughan, Ontario, L4L 5X1Phone: 1-888-820-0120Sales Inquiries: canadasales@rwc.comOrders: canadaorders@rwc.com retrieved 2019/08/13 original source: https://www.sharkbite.com/sites/g/files/rgohfh321/files/2018-05/SharkBite_Installation_Instructions_2018_WEB.pdf
• Simmons FROST PROOF YTARD HYDRANT REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS [PDF], Simmons Manufacturing P.O. Box 1509 McDonough, GA. 30253 1608 Highway 20 East McDonough, GA. 30252 USA Tel: (800) 241-1935, retrieved 2019/08/13 original source: http://www.simmonsmfg.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/HydrRepairInstr.pdf
• Sioux Chief Sioux-Chief FROST PROOF SILLCOCK ANTI SIPHON OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] Sioux Chief, P.O. Box 397 24110 South Peculiar Drive Peculiar, Missouri 64078 U.S.A Tel: 1-800-821-3944 Email: info@siouxchief.com Website: https://www.siouxchief.com retrieved 2019/08/13 original source: https://www.siouxchief.com/docs/default-source/technical-documents/installations/supply/frost-proof-anti-siphon-sillcock---instruction-sheet
• YARD HYDRANT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS [PDF], Fairfield Department of Health, retrieved 2019/08/13 original source: https://www.myfdh.org/pdf/Yard-Hydrant-Installation.pdf
• Watersource, WATERSOURCE YARD HYDRANT INSTALLATION [PDF], Watersource, P.O. Box 3795Mansfield, Ohio 44907 USA, Tel: 800.346.7611Website: www.watersourceusa.com retrieved 2019/08/13 from northerntool.com
• Watts Corporation, Series FHB-1, FHB-2 ANTI-SIPHON FROST-PROOF SILLCOCK INSTALLATION [PDF] Watts USA: T: (978) 689-6066 Watts.com Canada: T: (905) 332-4090 Watts.ca Latin America: T: (52) 81-1001-8600 Watts.com
  Watts also sells a lead-free series LF8 hose connection vacuum breaker that is an add-on vacuum breaker between an existing hose bibb and a garden hose.
  Excerpts from product description:
  Series LF8 is a line of unique vacuum breakers specially made to permit the attachment of portable hoses to hose thread faucets.
  Designed to prevent the flow of contaminated water back into the potable water supply, these devices require no plumbing changes and screw directly onto sill cocks. The Series LF8 features Lead Free* construction to comply with Lead Free* installation requirements.
  Series LF8 can be used on a wide variety of installations, such as service sinks, swimming pools, photo developing tanks, laundry tubs, wash racks, dairy barns, marinas and general outside gardening uses. - source: http://media.wattswater.com/ES-LF8.pdf 2018/07/17
• Webstone Valves (a NIBCO) brand, HOW TO SWT A BALL VALVE Installation Instructions [PDF] Webstone, a brand of NIBCO 60A Solferino Street Worcester, MA 01604 USA Tel: (800) 225-9529 retrieved 2019/08/13 original source: http://www.webstonevalves.com/customer/wecoin/PDF/swt_instructions.pdf
• Woodford ANTI-BURST FREEZELESS WALL FAUCET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS [PDF], Models 16 (without anti-siphon) & 19 (with anti-siphon protection), Woodford Manufacturing Company, 2121 Waynoka Rd., Colorado Springs CO 80915 USA, Website: www.woodfordmfg.com, Tel: 800-621-6032, email: sales@woodfordmfg.com
  Woodford is a division of WCM Industries, Inc. retrieved 2019/08/13 original source https://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/Installation/16-19%20Installation%20Instructions.pdf
• other manufacturers, varying by country.

Reader Comments & Q&A

On 2020-06-23 - by (mod) - how to get the plumbing parts with the right thread size or pitch

Jim
Thank you so much for the helpful post and photo.
I have also run into the 'wrong threads' problem on other plumbing repairs, such as in trying to connect up or find fittings to marry flare fittings, compression fittings, and normal or standard US 'NPT' thread pipe fittings. For example some flare fittings are sold in both a coarse thread and fine thread version.
I use several easy 'tricks' to check thread compatability, similar to your own experience:
1. find a fitting or part that screws properly onto the 'old' part and use that matching fitting (cap, nipple, etc) to select and buy the proper replacement part
2. Use a thread gauge (shown below)
3. Make note of devices using special threads or even reverse threads (uncommon but does occur)

On 2020-06-23 by Jim F.

@Tony Paccione, I had that 'turn forever' problem for a sillcock valve with a new stem I just bought. Finally, by comparing the old-vs-new stem, I immediately saw the reason: the stems were alike EXCEPT for the thread pitch.

The advice from danjoefriedman is important -- in addition to checking the thread condition, realize that the 'same' stem isn't really the same unless it's the same brand name; no standardization.

Sharkbite Frost Free Sillcock Installation Kits

On 2020-05-15 - by (mod) - check plumbing valve stem lengths, threads, fit

Tony,
Do you still have the old parts?
If so, lets compare old and new hydrant stem lengths
Also, shine a light into the receiving end and check thread condition.

On 2020-05-15 by Tony Paccione - Mansfield 500 series hydrant stem

I have rebuilt my Mansfield 500 series hydrant stem with the items in the repair kit. This is the first time this has been done, the house was built in 1992. Now that it is rebuilt, the threaded end of the stem (inside the house) will not 'catch'. I cannot screw this stem in. What could be the problem? The new handle is assembled but it continually turns both left and right. Please assist/advise. Thanks
Tony Paccione
Brick, NJ 08723
avp0713@comcast.net

On 2020-04-17 - by (mod) -

Quite possibly, Greg, moreso depending on who actually made the hose bibbs.
Am I right that simply tightening the packing nut around the valve stem doesn't fix the trouble?

On 2020-04-16 by Greg

I've installed brand new model 17 bibbs at three different addresses over the past 4 years. Each has persistent leaking at the valve stem when the faucet is 'on'. This occurs whether the faucet is 'fully 'on' or 'partially 'on'. This is VERY frustrating, being that the faucets are brand new. Is this a design flaw?

On 2019-05-02 6 - by (mod) - Woodford RK-17 anti-siphon valve was leaking.

Since the entire plastic part needs to be removed anyway I don't feel bad about gouging it up in order to create a slotted which I can insert a screwdriver or other tool to try turning it. Sometimes you can also tap the plastic carefully with a small screwdriver to cause it to turn in a counterclockwise Direction

On 2019-05-02 by Mike

Woodford RK-17 anti-siphon valve was leaking. I removed the cap and tried to loosen the clear plastic body of the anti-siphon piece. The top of the valve broke off and I can't remove the threaded part of the valve. Any ideas how to loosen it?

On 2019-08-13 by (mod) - steps in getting my hose bibb / sillcock inspected and approved

Dave
If you're in a freezing climate it makes sense to install a frost-proof hose bib. Details are at SILLCOCK INSTALLATION & REPAIR
Most likely - varying by the country and city where you live - you need a building or plumbing permit and at least two inspections, a rough-in inspection and a final inspection.
Mounting a sillcock (hose bib) through OSB covered with vinyl siding and connecting to PEX (why are you running red (hot water) PEX to an outdoor sillcock?) you may need blocking inside the wall between studs to be sure your sillcock is securely mounted.
This illustration is from the sillcock installation instructions for a Legend Model TM-550 Multi-Turn Anti-Siphon
Frost-Free Sillcock Installation Instructions - details are at the article I already cited

On 2019-08-12 by Dave

I am plumbing by myself, an addition to my home. In the addition, the plumbing will consist of; 1) a clothes washer connection, and drain. 2) a utility tub connection and drain. 3) A hose bib connection for outside use.

Once I have all the water and drain lines in place, do I have to charge the water lines with water, to pass the building code inspection or just have them run to where they will go, and I don't even have to have them connected to faucets etc? Will the inspector want to look at my 'actual',/ physical, water connections, ( to the utility tub faucet and clothes washer water connections and the out door faucet) Thank you for this opportunity to ask my questions, and I look forward to reading your reply.

I want to install a outside water hose bib on a 1/2 inch thick OSB wall that has vinyl siding on the outside. The wall studs are 2x4s. Do I want a freeze proof hose bib, and if so, what type, and size to buy? Eventually, This plumbing will have to be code inspector approved.

Oor do I not need a freeze proof type here to pass inspection? If I don't then what type, and size etc. would I need to buy?

To help you visualize the area I am working in, I have attached a picture of the area and wall that the 1/2 inch PEX line will pass through to feed the hose bib. I'll look for your reply. And thank you for this great web site, and the ability to send you questions!

This Q&A were posted originally at PLUMBING SYSTEM INSPECT DIAGNOSE REPAIR

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Technical Reviewers & References

Sharkbite Frost Free Hose Bib

• [2] 'New Electric Heat Tapes Help Prevent Fires,' US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) #00936
• [3] Carson Dunlop provides home inspection education including the ASHI-adopted a Home Inspection Home Study Course, and publications such as the Home Reference Book, the Home Reference eBook, and report writing materials including the Horizon report writer, and home inspection services. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors.
• [4] 'Freezeproof Your House,' Mike McClintock, Rodale's New Shelter, p. 30, October 1985 (approximate date)
• [5] 'How to Winterize Your Pipes,' Mike McClintock, Homeowners How-To Magazine, p. 59-62, Nov-Dec
• [8] 'Cross Connections', Michigan Department of Environmental Quality Water Bureau, Lansing Operations Division, Tel: 517-241-1300, web search 5/12/12, original source: http://www.a2gov.org/government/publicservices/customerservice
  /Documents/customerservice_waterdeqCrossConnBrochure.pdf
• [9] 'How a Frost-Proof Faucet Works', Woodford Manufacturing Company, 2121 Waynoka Road, Colorado Springs, Colorado 80915, Phone: (800) 621-6032, Website: woodfordmfg.com, Email: sales@woodfordmfg.com, WCM Industries, Inc., web search 5/12/12, original source: http://www.wcmind.com/woodford/Troubleshooting/19%20Troubleshooting.pdf
• [10] 'Anti-Burst Freezeless Wall Faucet Model 16 & 19, Installation Instructions', Woodford Manufacturing Company, 2121 Waynoka Road, Colorado Springs, Colorado 80915, Phone: (800) 621-6032, Website: woodfordmfg.com, Email: sales@woodfordmfg.com, WCM Industries, Inc., web search 5/12/12, original source:
  http://www.wcmind.com/woodford/Installation/16-19%20Installation%20Instructions.pdf
• [11] 'How a Standard Frost-Proof Faucet Works', Woodford Manufacturing Company, 2121 Waynoka Road, Colorado Springs, Colorado 80915, Phone: (800) 621-6032, Website: woodfordmfg.com, Email: sales@woodfordmfg.com, WCM Industries, Inc., web search 5/12/12, original source: http://www.wcmind.com/woodford/HowAFaucet/How%20a%20
  Standard%20Frost-Proof%20Faucet%20Works.pdf
• [12] 'Cast Brass Hose Bibbs with separate tamper-proof vacuum breaker', Watts Regulator, ES-SC8, 2005, Watts Regulator USA: 815 Chestnut St., No., Andover MA 01845-6098, website: www.wattsreg.com; Canada: Watts Regulator, 5435 North Service Rd., Burlington ONT L7L 5H7, website: www.wattscanada.ca
• Hose bibb synonyms: sill cock, sillcock, hose faucet, outdoor wall faucet, frost-proof faucet, freeze-proof faucet, freezeless wall faucet, hose bib, sill cock, hose hook-up.
• ...

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Sharkbite Frost Free Sillcock Installation Kit